Patty is using the Canon Rebel XTi, the newer, better version of my camera. She is also using an image stabilizing lens.
The first thing I did was right click the original file she sent (not the one posted here online) and read the Exif data. Exif files, in every digital picture, contain most of the parameters which describe how the camera was set.
Patty’s shot was 1/25 sec, f5, ISO400. Her lens was zoomed to 43mm. The camera was set to sports priority, which tries to favor faster shutter speed.
Unfortunately, there wasn’t enough light for the camera to do everything asked of it!
In order to have a properly exposed photo, the shutter speed, aperture (size of the lens opening… that ‘f’ number) and sensitivity (the ISO number) must combine within the camera’s sweet spot. If the numbers are too high, the picture is overexposed. Too low and the picture is too dark.
Patty’s biggest problem is, to maximize the light, the camera set the shutter speed too slow. That’s why anything moving is blurry. I also suspect the image stabilization isn’t turned on, but I can’t be sure. That’s probably a switch on the lens. Sadly, it wouldn’t have helped with the hockey players.
The photographers rule of thumb is, never shoot slower than “1/lens length.” In Patty’s case, that’s 1/43 second. But that’s for still life. She’s shooting motion. The number needs to be even higher, which means faster (the shutter is open for a shorter length of time).
Here’s what I recommend:
- Switch to shutter priority. It’s probably abbreviated Tv
- Turn up your shutter speed to 1/150 (to start)
- You need to compensate for lost light, because you’re now losing 2 f-stops by having the shutter open 25% of the time it was open earlier, so raise the ISO to 1600
- Your shots will be a little grainer, but they should be a lot sharper (the grain won’t be a terrible problem unless you’re printing the shot in a very large size)
If this works (and it should), you can do some additional tweaking. If there’s still plenty of light, you can increase the shutter speed a little – from 1/150 to 1/200 or even higher. Or, you can reduce the ISO to 800, which will reduce the grain a little, but also reduce the brightness.
Earlier, I mentioned your image stabilization looks like it’s off. Even if it is on, ‘IS’ only helps stabilize stationary things, like the net or the walls. The only way to keep moving things from blurring is with faster shutter speeds.
Don’t be scared to shoot away. Take a few hundred photos at a game. Fill your card.
Look at the LCD screen from time-to-time¹ and make adjustments to the settings. Faster shutter equals darker. Higher ISO equals brighter. Turn the knobs. It’s only bits and bytes.
The aperture can also be adjusted, but not in the mode I have recommended. It will try and open up the lens to compensate for the other settings.
Patty, I sure would like to show some ‘after’ photos, because I’m confident you’ll get this right the next time you shoot!
¹ – I have shot alongside pros at sporting events a few times. I was very surprised when I first saw, they sneak peeks at their LCD screen too! In fact, the first few times I saw it, I thought I was seeing exceptions. Nope, everyone seems to do it.